The City of Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Grape-Treading Fruit in Urban Spaces
Every 20 minutes or so, an older diesel-powered train arrives at a graffiti-covered stop. Nearby, a police siren pierces the near-constant traffic drone. Commuters hurry past falling apart, ivy-draped garden fences as rain clouds form.
It is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has managed to 40 mature vines heavy with round purplish berries on a sprawling allotment situated between a row of historic homes and a local rail line just above the city downtown.
"I've seen individuals hiding illegal substances or whatever in those bushes," says Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a kombucha drinks business, is among several urban winemaker. He's pulled together a informal group of growers who produce vintage from several hidden urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and community plots across the city. It is sufficiently underground to possess an official name yet, but the collective's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Wine Gardens Around the Globe
So far, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of Paris's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and more than 3,000 grapevines with views of and within the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement re-establishing urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking nations, but has identified them throughout the world, including urban centers in East Asia, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Vineyards help urban areas remain more eco-friendly and more diverse. These spaces protect land from construction by creating long-term, productive agricultural units within cities," explains the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those produced in cities are a product of the earth the vines grow in, the vagaries of the weather and the people who care for the grapes. "Each vintage embodies the beauty, community, landscape and history of a city," notes the spokesperson.
Unknown Eastern European Variety
Returning to Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to gather the vines he cultivated from a cutting abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. If the precipitation arrives, then the birds may take advantage to attack again. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish variety," he comments, as he cleans damaged and mouldy berries from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. In contrast to premium grapes – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and other famous French grapes – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."
Collective Efforts Across the City
Additional participants of the group are additionally taking advantage of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of Bristol's shimmering waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with barrels of wine from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her dark berries from approximately 50 vines. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. It is so reminiscent," she remarks, stopping with a container of fruit slung over her arm. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on holiday."
The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, inadvertently took over the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her household in recent years. She felt an overwhelming duty to maintain the grapevines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has previously survived three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to someone else so they can continue producing from this land."
Terraced Gardens and Traditional Winemaking
A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are busily laboring on the steep inclines of the local river valley. One filmmaker has cultivated over 150 vines situated on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, the filmmaker, 60, is picking bunches of dusty purple dark berries from lines of vines slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her child, her family member. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's Great National Parks series and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to cultivate vines after observing her neighbour's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can make interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for upwards of seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of wine bars specialising in low-processing vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can truly make good, natural wine," she states. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an traditional method of producing vintage."
"When I tread the fruit, the various wild yeasts are released from the skins into the juice," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a container of small branches, seeds and red liquid. "That's how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries add preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently add a lab-grown yeast."
Difficult Environments and Creative Solutions
In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired Scofield to establish her vines, has gathered his friends to pick white wine varieties from the 100 vines he has arranged precisely across two terraces. The former teacher, a northern English physical education instructor who worked at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to Europe. However it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the valley, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits Reeve with a smile. "This variety is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers"
The temperamental local weather is not the sole challenge encountered by winegrowers. The gardener has been compelled to install a barrier on